The Kitchen Review

Cooking and eating in New York City since 8:30am this morning.

You and Your Turkey

My friend Renee is living in Poland and wanted to share the bounty of an American Thanksgiving with her Polish friends. Problem was, there aren't many turkeys in Poland. Luckily, Renee had a German friend who's husband could procure turkeys. (This all starts sounding very Bourne Identity to me at this point.) And since Polish poultry are typically quite paltry, Renee told her friend to get the biggest turkey she could get her German hands on, on so....

Reneeturkey

Renee got a 19 kilo bird! For those of us who are metric illiterate, that's 42 pounds of turkey smuggled across the border. The thing would not fit in her European refrigerator, much less her oven. I'm sure she learned some valuable lessons about the anatomy of foul while she carved it into workable pieces. Even after it was trimmed to an oven-ready size, it weighed 30 pounds.

Although a few days early, Renee served her Thanksgiving feast to rave reviews from her 14 very thankful Polish friends. All of her guests vowed to celebrate Thanksgiving this Thursday in their own homes. For her great service to the Thanksgiving feast, spreading the joy of harvest foods throughout the world, I proclaim Renee "Mrs. Thanksgiving International 2005."

I am so inspired by her Turkey Story, I'd like to encourage everyone to e-mail me a picture of "you and your turkey." You can snap the photo pre or post roast, just send it to me in as a jpg by Sunday, November 26th and I'll post it on my site for everyone to admire.

November 21, 2005 in Gastronomical | Permalink | Comments (1) | TrackBack (0)

Good Gravy

Why spend hours preparing a delicious Thanksgiving feast when you can drink your way through all of the great holiday flavors?

Wildherb_1

The Jones Soda Company does it again with their seasonal sodas made in an array of unlikely flavors. How about fizzy Turkey & Gravy, or Wild Herb Stuffing over ice, or perhaps a Broccoli Casserole spritzer?

And, you can purchase these wonders in a Holiday "fun pack" at Target. Hey, if you don't have anything to say to Aunt Eunice during dinner at least you could chat about those crazy kids and their crazy sodas!

Sometimes marketing geniuses really are geniuses.

November 18, 2005 in Gastronomical | Permalink | Comments (1) | TrackBack (0)

Like Butter

Not satisfied with my apple butter from two weeks ago, I tried again last Saturday.

I'm a little freaked out that this Saturday is the last day of our farmer's markets for the year, but it is the end of the harvest season and that's just the way it goes. So, I stopped by the folks on 110th and purchased 8 pounds of apples and 5 pounds of pears, plus a gallon of apple cider.  The idea of Saturdays without my favorite shopping trip really put me is the preservation spirit, so I decided instead of just packing the butters in mason jars, I would actually process them for long-term storage. I found the necessary supplies - jar tongs, a 12-pack of Ball jars, and a wide-mouth funnel - at the kitchenwares store on 112th and Broadway. Hauling all this equiptment and fruit around made me kind of tired, so I spent about an hour deciding which recipes to use, how long I needed to process the products, and envisioning a Kitchen Review line of fruit butters that would win Specialty Food Product of the Year 2006.

I decided upon two recipes from the Epicurious website. The Pear Butter with Cardomom and Cinnamon seemed quite sophisticated, using white wine as the cooking liquid. Instead of Reisling, I used Vouvray and was happy to have the Saigon Cinnamon from Coastal Goods on hand, too. The recipe was simple to follow, though I increased cooking time to get an extra-thick texture. I can turn the jars of it completely upside-down without the butter moving. I consider this butter success. Unfortunately, it only yielded 2 and 3/4 pints, so I'll have to make more for Christmas-time gift giving. That is, if I can get the pears this weekend.

The apple butter recipe seemed to address my previous problem - loose consistency - by using less liquid and longer cooking time. I was also careful not to boil the product to ensure that the natural pectin would be intact. In addition to the cinnamon, I added three pods of star anise. I really liked the flavor. It's like 'cinnamon plus something I can't quite put my finger on.' I cooked this butter for almost four hours and still got an applesaucy texture. I didn't want the chunkiness, so I pureed it and perhaps that was my downfall. It is improved from my last batch, but I'm not quite sure if it qualifies as a butter. If anyone has had success with apple butter, could you please write me and let me in on your secret. I figured 2 cups of cider to 8 pounds of apples would do the trick. Now I have 6 pints of the stuff. Delicious, just not quite butter. I think I'll package it as a "Sophisticated Apple Sauce" to be served with poultry or pork.

The processesing was easy as could be. I wonder why I've been afraid of it. I sanitized the glass jars in boiling water. I didn't have a canning pot, just my stock pot with a dish towel on the bottom to prevent everything from knocking around. I also had a tea kettle with boiling water to add to the pot as the water boiled off. I filled the jars using my nifty wide-mouth funnel and screwed on the lids securely, but not too tightly.  I boiled the jars in the water, being sure that the water cleared the jars by at least an inch, for 10 minutes. The jar tongs made it easy for me to fish out the jars, then they cooled on a towel on my countertop. A delightful popping sound from the lids let me know that I had achieve a vacuum seal.

Even thought my efforts weren't perfect, I was proud...and a little sad that I hadn't saved more of my farmer's market finds by 'putting them up.' I won't make the same mistake next spring.

November 16, 2005 in My Table | Permalink | Comments (2) | TrackBack (0)

Profiles in Great Turkey

Have you decided how you're fixing your turkey this year? Here are the questions you need to ask yourself, and my answers. Please let me know your Turkey Profile.

Make: Lobel's

Model: Organic, Free-Range

Size: 10-12 pounds

Method: Roast

Brined: No

Trussed: No

Stuffed: Yes. I'm thinking hazelnut and apricot parisienne loaf base with bacon, orange zest, and lots of sage.

Time or Temperature: 500 degrees for 30 minutes, then 350 degrees until internal temp is 160 degrees, then pull and rest for 20 minutes

Preperation: Under and over skin rub with butter, stuffed with sage between skin and flesh on breast, bacon strips laid on breast for auto-baste with pork fat because BACON MAKES IT BETTER! Remove bacon for last 30-40 minutes for browning.

Gravy: Yes, roux thickener with stock made from giblets and drippings, perhaps a drop or two of brandy

Accompaniment: Cranberry and Orange Relish by Mr. Sweetie

I think I've covered everything. Negotiations will begin soon to fill out the rest of the menu.

November 14, 2005 in My Table | Permalink | Comments (7) | TrackBack (0)

Drinkers of the World Unite!

If you need something to do today, and you'd like to get buzzed by some of the best brewers in the country, trot on down to Chelsea Piers for Brewtopia.

$40 advance tickets. $50 at the door, if available.

I'm not sure if I will attend. I might just hold out for "Wine v. Beer" from Marnie Old later this month.

November 12, 2005 | Permalink | Comments (2) | TrackBack (0)

Super Fresh

It has only taken five years of talk, but I have finally ordered a FRESH ORGANIC FREE-RANGE Thanksgiving turkey.

I'm getting my bird from the famous Lobel's and I feel like a real New York City gourmet. Seeing the delicious gobblers penned up at the Stone Barns Center two weeks ago did it. They looked so happy, and fat, and succulent. Knowing that I wouldn't be able to score a Thanksgiving day reservation, I did the next best thing.

Serious thought must be spent on the rest of the menu. I'm just not sure which stuffing to go with. Maybe I'll start stocking up on Hazelnut-Cranberry Parisienne loaves from Silver Moon for the base. Definitely going with a gratin of Yukon Golds and Carrots. Green beans with almonds, perhaps? Maybe an apple Tarte Tatin, though I haven't made that Ultimate Pumpkin Pie in a few years. Decisions. Decisions.

November 11, 2005 in Buy This | Permalink | Comments (3) | TrackBack (0)

Box Wine

I am fairly certain that the first sip of wine I ever had was from my grandmother's glass of Franzia Chardonnay. She kept a box in the fridge, on call from noon till night. When I was fifteen, we spent a week one summer alone together at her lake cottage. My only duty was to keep the glass full. In the evening, she would sit on the porch at a large round oak table with her wine,  shuffling cards around a never-ending solitaire game. A cloud of cigarette smoke would grow above her head.

When it got dark, I would go out for some fresh air and stand on the edge of the dock. The cottages across the lake twinkled happily. Turning around to face the light pouring off the screened porch, the white cloud of smoke seemed to be pushing her drooping head closer to the table. And just when I thought she would lay her head down and drift off to sleep, her creeky wooden chair would scrape back from the table. She would rise and slowly move towards bed. The porch light would go out. With no reflection from our cottage, when I looked down into the water it seemed that the darkness had no bottom. And if I jumped in, I imagined I would fall forever.

For me, boxed wine and my grandmother are intertwined in a wistful and lonely memory. I couldn't help but think about her when I read the New York Times article on the recouperation of the vacuum-sealed wine pack by Macon-Villages. They are launching the concept with a Chardonnay, of course, but not in a box. The wine comes in an attractive canister and holds the equivalent of three bottles. The spigot and air-tight seal garauntee freshness to the last drop. This makes it an excellent choice for "house white" at restaurants and perhaps I might bring it to a party. Though, I don't think I want to have it on tap in my fridge.

November 10, 2005 in Trend Report | Permalink | Comments (1) | TrackBack (0)

Apple of My Eye

The John household is apple crazy.

I spent my Saturday cooking down apple butter from 4 1/2 pounds of beauties from the local farmer's market. While I didn't achieve the perfect apple butter consistency, and I'm not sure why, the stuff still makes a damn fine topper for steel-cut oatmeal.

Kris rocked out an impromptu Tart Tatin for dinner on Sunday night. It was ooooehy and gooooey - a caramel dream. Later that night, I recounted my favorite apple varieties in order of preference. Macoun is tops on my list. I am unmoved by Red Delicious.

That is why I am so excited about the free downloadable cookbook at the fabulous Tasting Menu. "All About Apples: A Tasting Menu from Scott Carlsberg of Lampreia" is gorgeous, and filled with sophisticated recipes that will keep you coming back to the apple bin for months.

November 01, 2005 in Cook Books | Permalink | Comments (3) | TrackBack (0)

I Guess It Was A Pickle Day

The NY Food Museum's Pickle Day street festival on Orchard was quite a success. The entire LES was buzzing with pickle excitement. People, even a few hipsters, lined up for samples from The Pickles Guys, Just Pickles, and Guss's. Rick's Picks also sampled some of their tres cher pickled fare. The street was very crowded with pickle pickers and historical exhibits. A palpable 'pickle frenzy' hung in the air. Or was that vinegar? Sahadi's served up pickled fat beets. Kim-chi pancakes sold like hot cakes.  And, mounds of Kalyustan lime pickles puckered the faces of all comers.

Guss's is still my favorite, so I lined up at their storefront to buy my sours, pickled mushrooms and artichoke hearts. While Kris went to get some of the good stuff from Il Laboratorio del Gelato, I spoke with a cousin of the former Guss's owner - pickle royalty, I'd say. She proudly revealed that the quality of the products had not declined since her family sold the business. This must be true because she was in from Jersey just to buy three gallons of sours. The guy behind me in line, also in from Jersey to stock up, told me to check out Gertel's Bakery on Hester for the most authentic Jewish breads. So, I hot-footed it over and bought myself a mini-challah.

In honor of the immigrants who started their American life in the Lower East Side, I ate pickles and challah for dinner. Very New York.

October 03, 2005 in Gastro-Travel | Permalink | Comments (6) | TrackBack (2)

Terrorists and Coffee Drinkers

You are on notice! The MTA will not tolerate the blowing up of bombs or morning latte caffeine fixing.

I'm not a big fan of subway cars that smell like McDonald's, nor do I want some grubby three-year old's Cheez Doodle fingers all over my seat, but might our cops have better things to do than bust subterranean dining?

The random bag check will now include a suspicious liquids and greasy edibles pat down.

September 30, 2005 in Pots, Pans & Rants | Permalink | Comments (1) | TrackBack (0)

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